Surfing in Hawaii

Surfing occupies an honored place in the Hawaiian culture.

The exact origins are unclear, but wave sliding, has been practiced in the Hawaiian Islands for centuries.

Different from the old days, surfing now includes the use of foot straps for aerial tricks. You'll also find quite exotic surf board shapes.

Oahu's North Shore can see towering waves through October to April. The winter storms sweep across the North Pacific.

They produce powerful swell lines. Waimea Bay has always been known for the largest waves that can be surfed. The face of the wave, just before it breaks is where the energy of the water is most concentrated.

Most modern surfboards are made of lightweight fibreglass and range in length from 6 to 12 feet. They usually have 3 fins attached to the underside of their tails, though longer boards may only have one.

Long boards may be wide for riding gently sloped waves, like those of Waikiki, or narrow for riding steep waves, like those on the North Shore at Waimea Bay.

The fins on the bottom add stability and maneuverability. They come in different shapes and sizes. In big waves, the fin would be backward and in small waves, it would be forward.

The Triple Crown of Surfing in Hawaii takes place every year for three weeks in late November to mid-December. Oahu's North Shore is transformed into a surfing carnival.

The world's most prestigous series of surfing contests, takes place at Banzai Pipeline and Sunset Beach near Waimea, and at Ali'i Beach Park in Hale'iwa.